Devereaux Destruxion

Day two on Santa Barbara test shoots. Dawn patrol at Devereaux. Disastrous clownage.

D of C

It was hollow on the point. That never happens. Swell pushing from west southwest, wind from straight south. Swell peaking up on the point reef, with the set waves wrapping around to the inside break. High tide peaking. Maybe 6 guys out. Old men posted up on the peak, riding 100s of yards. There was a cross swell from the south, and the peaks popped up and disappeared inside in the interim between sets.

Heidi set up above the graffiti hut. She keeps saying something to me while I'm walking down the path to the sand. I guess I didn't hear. I guess I pretended I did. I paddled out to the inside kook break.

See the embedded video for what transpired. But suffice to say there is nothing to be proud of here. Arm weary, wrong place, wrong time.

I get back and wrap my leash. I look down. My wetsuit legs each are holding about a gallon and a half. The booties are full. I drain out and head up the hill.

Heidi says there were worse surfers out there. I go to unzip and find my back zipper down already. That was what she'd been trying to tell me.

This is not to say the results would have been different had I not been packing an extra 5 pounds of water in each leg. It would have been just the same. We are dealing with inborn limitations.

Comments

[Swells]

"Wherever I think I should be I'm going to go somewhere else."
Does this apply just to surfing?

[sissy]

i have a new quest for you...something more on your level.

spat out in glory holes.