Surf Carnage: Devereaux Destruxion, Part Deux
There was bound to be blood.
Spat Out in Glory's inglorious return to Devereaux Point in Santa Barbara left an indelible impression ... above the left eye. Surfboard, meet supra-orbital ridge.
After three months of Nicaragua's steep, speedy beach breaks, the slow right-hand rollers off California's points promised a cake walk. And sure enough, Devereaux delivered the usual goods: Knee high crumblers with some waist-high stuff. Perfect conditions, if the goal is surfing solitude. An hour and a half in the water, accompanied only by a couple on a tandem 'yak (*killing it*), a softboarder in my usual slot at the kook break, and three UCSB kids comparing notes on who had hooked up with who last weekend. Perfect. ...
The sidewalk-wide longboard forgave anything that's come off the game since Nicaragua, and Spat slid down a handful of sweet little baby waves. Confidence bolstered, an attempt at cross-stepping to the nose. Then, the inevitable 48-frames-per-second, slow-mo view of the nose burying itself. A happy-go-lucky faceplant.
But wait. An unexpected thonking sound. Transmitted by 30-odd pounds of fiberglass surfboard connecting with the forehead. A clean hit. No shearing. Think the deepest note on a marimba struck with a 14 oz. rubber mallet. Here's blood in yer eye!
Next stop: the video lab. To study the occult arts of cross-stepping and noseriding.
And here, a retrospective on the last round of Devereaux Destruxion.
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Reader Comments (2)
Man I wish I could have not that to you!
Nice gash. Very impressive.
And yes... I miss you.
Man I wish I could have previewed that.
Meant to say, wish I could have DONE that to you.