Entries in Longboard (3)

Friday
Oct292010

Big Pipe, Critical Ghost Tree, Devereaux ...

Names that echo through surfing: Big Bonzai Pipeline, Critical Ghost Tree, Scary Puerto. And, of course, Knee-Slappin' Devereaux.

Spat out in Glory has had about three false starts getting more footage since the return from Nicaragua's golden surf spots. Finally it came together this week. Time, waves (of a sort), functioning camera equipment. At Devereaux. Where it all started back in '81. (Video after the jump.)

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Friday
Apr232010

Devereaux Devolution: Surfing's Inner Simian

Evolution doubters suffered a terrible setback today at Devereaux Point in Santa Barbara. Exhibit No. 1: The embedded video from Spat Out in Glory conclusively demonstrating that ape DNA runs strong in humankind's veins.

This is the kind of thing that could end up in Geico commercial. Note the dull gaze. The tiny, low forehead. The haunchy, straight-backed crouch. The knuckles dragging on the surfboard deck. A dead stick hanging from the evolutionary tree. This specimen, like many recent iterations of the hominid family, lacked body hair. It also seems to lack the instincts and athleticism of its arboreal cousins. Darwin is rolling in his grave. ...

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Friday
Dec042009

Hits and Misses at Campus ...

DC and crewA list of things that went wrong...

Forgot handle to fluid head. Battery pack on Yashika Super 8 got tempermental. Greg pinched palm on tripod. Heidi pinched thumb on tripod. Left video tape in truck.

... So it begins ...

More reassuringly, I find my surfing chops to be just where I left them. A selection of the day's tastiest embedded here.

Also burned two test rolls of Super 8 up on the bluff at Campus Point at high tide, testing film stocks, exposures, angles.

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